It’s a pitch black night in June 2023, moonlight alone illuminating my desk. I was dead tired and could barely form a sentence, but I couldn’t stop. This was my last set of exams before completing my undergraduate in psychology. Being so fatigued I couldn’t stop my mind from wandering. “What’s next?”. I had learned a lot but immediately continuing my path in psychology didn’t feel right. Was I chasing a goal, or simply following momentum?
Seeing how tired I was, I paused my studies and dedicated the last hour of the night to reflection. The previous three years had been tough and I wanted to reward myself with a chance to reset, refocus and recalibrate. I took a page from psychology and tried guided imagery. I had Asian LoFi music playing in the background. I closed my eyes and thought “If I could be anywhere right now where would I be?”.
A surprisingly clear picture came to mind. A quiet, Zen coffee shop with raindrops trickling down its window. A focused young man stroking the keys of his laptop with a good cup of tea at his side. Looking outside the window revealed monuments of stone and metal. The tallest buildings I had ever seen with neon lights permeating the thick fog and rain. I was a wandering ronin in modern Tokyo. Completing my degree had given me purpose and direction. Now without a master, I was looking to find myself in a whole new world.
Until then, I had been diligent — but not deliberate, so I strove to live intentionally and do something I had always wanted to do. Bright streets, neon lights, accessibility, samurai, temples, anime, PEACE… Tokyo seemed to have it all and booking the trip was symbolic of a personal shift in intention.
Of course, not everything went according to plan. The flights from Malta were very expensive so to make the most of it a lowkey trip to Tokyo escalated into a hectic sightsee across Japan. 16 days. Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Nara and Hakone. Despite these changes, I’ve got no regrets. Rolling around Japan in my wheelchair was a breeze, and taunting my parents for walking so slow added to the thrill.
Here are 6 ways my holiday to Japan was unlike any other:
1. Hitting the streets
Japan had the most accessible commutes I have ever experienced, especially Tokyo which is mostly flat. Rolling on sidewalks was a breeze and the pedestrian lights being on a timer made crossing the street very convenient. There was a strong sense of momentum where there was no need for me to stop every couple of minutes to press the pedestrian lights, manage uneven terrain or send someone ahead to scout for an accessible route.
Public transport also contributed to this once we got used to it (and I highly recommend an IC card / Suica for this). Things got particularly easy when I let go of my pride and started asking staff for guidance. Bus drivers would set up a ramp and use locks to ground my wheelchair firmly in place. They would then ask where I was headed and help me down of their own accord once I reach my stop.
The train system. A work of art in its own right. All I had to do was tell station staff my final destination. They would then map out all of the stops I would need to pass through and set up a line of communication with the staff from all relevant stations. The staff would guide me to my first train and help me board using a ramp. When a transfer was needed, another staff member from the next station would come for me automatically and help me down once again. I would then be guided to my next train to repeat the process until I reach my final destination.
What fascinates me the most about Japan’s public transport is its use of human resources. There are no fancy contraptions ensuring accessibility. Just staff allocation and coordination prioritizing accessibility. This does wonders for both convenience and safety, and is a strong contrast to other experiences where I had to miss buses that were too crowded for unassisted boarding. Once again, this contributes to a sense of momentum and automation where commuting was almost a form of meditation.
Travelling was also made easier thanks to Accessible Japan which was a very useful resource when planning my trip and deciding where to go. Cheers to Josh and his hard work!
One last point on accessibility – Their wheelchair-friendly toilets rock and are everywhere, especially in Tokyo. Many station toilets also have doors that lock electronically, which is useful for people who have trouble locking doors manually.
2. Kind to thy neighbour
Another highlight of Japan was how friendly everyone was. Whilst this shouldn’t come as a surprise given Japan’s reputation, locals’ stance towards helping shocked me as a person with a disability. When travelling, I’m used to getting uninvited (but well intentioned) help on things that I can do perfectly fine by myself. I would then have to either spend minutes convincing the person I’m fine or succumb to their generous offer before continuing on with my day. While well-intentioned and appreciated, these frequent encounters can become a bit tiring. I did not get uninvited help in Japan (apart from that one time I almost fell a flight of stairs). Everyone seemed focused on their own lane, unless you ask for help directly.
If you ask a local for help in Japan, trust that they will go above and beyond to help you. One time I could not find the elevator to a station and I asked a stranger coming from the opposite direction for help. This local spent 20 minutes walking with us in the opposite direction, helped us find the elevator and did not leave our side until we got on the train safely. Above and beyond.
It’s like Japan was telling me “I’ll stay in my lane, but if you reach out I’ll offer both hands”. Love it.
3. Embracing Legacy
Sightseeing in Japan is like going to a theme park with attractions everywhere – unique vistas and architecture everywhere you go. This is largely due to how well Japan embraces its legacy. Many statues, torii gates and temples seem to be well preserved, with some of the latter housing monks who seemed to reside in them to this day. These temples aren’t for show either, as people still visit them for daily prayer. This makes Japan a fantastic venue for immersing into a new culture with its own sights and sounds. This emphasis on preservation does have its downsides, as multiple landmarks like Osaka castle were under maintenance during our visit, but I understand that in the long term it is worth it.
Some highlights from my trip that I recommend: Kiyomizudera temple, Kinkakuji temple, Tennoji temple, Sensoji temple, Nara park, Nijo castle, Osaka castle, Arashiyama bamboo grove and Inari shrine.
4. Night City
When the sun goes down Japan is a different kind of gorgeous. Streets light up with neon lights especially in Shibuya and Shinjuku. They’re a photographer’s dream. I felt like I was playing Cyberpunk 2077 in real life – minus the blood and death. I’ve been to other cities in other countries but none that I had visited by that point were this densely packed with tall buildings, neon lights and small shops selling delicious food and booze (more on that later).
One last point on urban city vibes – Odaiba is probably the highlight of my trip. Shops galore, a gorgeous view of rainbow bridge over the water and white buildings contrasted by green vegetation everywhere you look. Possibly a hot take but riding the monorail was better than Disney Land in my opinion. I was so engrossed I forgot to take photos. I guess I have to go back.
5. Anime Wonderland
Anime is another big reason I wanted to visit Japan. From anime themed billboards to one shop after another selling figurines. Self-control was a real challenge and in no other holiday was I this desperate for more luggage space. Nipponbashi Den Den Town in Osaka was an Otaku’s fantasy. I honestly felt bad for my parents who don’t watch anime, as they had to wait outside while I spend hours deciding what to buy.
Diver City in Odaiba was another highlight full of anime goods, and an up-close look at the Gundam statue outside was a highlight.
That said, not all of my anime-themed ambitions came to light. Easily my most anticipated trip was Akihabara. In fact, I bought almost nothing for two weeks to save luggage space for our final day and visit to the otaku paradise. Unfortunately it rained heavily that day so we ended up visiting only a single building. To make matters worse, I bought some video games but then had to return them after I realized that they were Japanese only. This meant that I left Akihabara without buying anything and went home almost empty handed, save for the goods I bought in Den Den Town.
As heartbreaking as that experience was, yet another reason to go back one day.
6. Oishii!
Lastly, the reason many of you readers are interested in Japan. The food. Ramen, sushi, and taiyaki. All as popular and delicious as advertised.
I was in wagyu beef heaven. Super tender and flavourful. I particularly enjoyed the Japanese-style barbeque and found grilling bitesize pieces of meat addicting. The highlight was definitely dango though. Super chewy and sweet. I made it a habit to have a skewer every day. The fact that I was not able to find them outside Japan made me recall them even more fondly. One more reason to go back. I also really enjoyed the stringy tofu ice-cream. That said, I did not enjoy Takoyaki as much which surprised me due to its popularity.
All in all, Japan was a trip to remember and I’m definitely going back within the next 5 years. When I travel, I like to feel like I entered a different world and on that front Japan definitely delivered. It was not the Zen, lowkey trip I initially envisioned but I still had plenty of time to reflect. It also gave me the shot in the arm I needed to forge ahead, and expanded my horizons in terms of what I was capable of and what my future holds. This trip was my first scouting mission, exploring how much I enjoy Japan’s vibe and atmosphere. Given how at home I felt, living there is definitely on the table.
4th April 2024 is a date carved into my brain as a day I will never forget. 1 year ago was my last day in Japan. A day of sorrow and hope. The day I made a promise: I’ll be back.
The ronin from 2023 is still wandering – but in a world made larger.
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